Machu Picchu

View of the Andes from Machu Picchu.

And now, ladies and gentlemen, the post you've all been waiting for: Machu Picchu!


Very early on a drizzly morning, Steve and I (and several hundred others) boarded buses in Aguas Calientes (literally "hot waters" because of the hot mountain springs nearby) to drive the zigzag route to the famed Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. In fact, we were in line for the buses long before the sun even rose.

The switchback road up to Machu Picchu

See those switchbacks? I was very grateful that it was early in the day and all the buses were going up, so we only encountered one or two buses going down. Don't take a window seat.

Machu Picchu is a pretty "hot" destination these days, so expect crowds. The bus up to the mountain is first come, first served, so get to the depot early. We waited for about an hour (in the drizzling rain).

Stephen had already glimpsed the mountain the day before we went together. I had stayed behind in Ollantaytambo while Steve joined a group of trekkers to experience the Inca Trail. I'm sharing a few of his pictures first, to give you some idea of the trail.

The Inca Trail

Not only did the Incas sculpt an impressive city out of the mountain, they also established paths throughout the Andes. (These trails are too narrow for horses which caused the conquistadors some hardship.)

Waterfall at Wiñay Wayna, which Quechua for "forever young."

I had thought about joining the group, but I'm glad I didn't. You really do need to be in better shape than I am for this excursion. Our short hike to Pinkuylluna was a reality check. 

Scrambling up the "stairs" on the Inca Trail.

After seeing that picture (above, taken by Steve), I was glad I had exercised prudence. They probably would've had to airlift me out.

The following morning, when we arrived together, the rain was just drifting off, but we could still see clouds dancing between the mountain peaks.

Clouds drifting between and over the mountains of Peru.

It was truly magical.

Machu Picchu through the clouds.

And when the clouds cleared, even for a brief moment, the view was everything I'd hoped for.

The "urban" part of Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu in the background.

The entire fortress has two sectors of roughly equal size: agricultural and urban.

Hobe / Holger Behr - public domain

The agricultural part is the traditional terraces you've seen before.

Agricultural terraces at Machu Picchu.

The walls of the terraces were quite different from the walls we'd seen in Ollantaytambo, which were built as dwellings.

Terrace walls at Machu Picchu.

They are still dry-fitted, but not as finely shaped as the walls of temples and buildings. The walls in the dwelling of The Inca (like their emperor) were exquisitely finely carved.

Fortress wall at Machu Picchu.

 These were built for beauty as well as function.

Close-up of dwelling wall at Machu Picchu.

Using nothing but a very hard stone (they were pre-iron age here), they chipped at these huge boulders until they fit so closely that you couldn't slide a blade between them.

Our visit was early October, the beginning of rainy season, so plants were just beginning to bloom, but I think these are mostly air plants.

Don't stand still too long or something will start growing on you.

 Seriously, these plants can grow on nothing!

Air plant.

Everywhere we stepped, we were greeted with amazing vistas.

Machu Picchu

Because the city-fortress is built on a cone, you basically are climbing up and down all the time. It's a workout.

Every time I paused for breath (I have asthma and only about 80% lung capacity), I thought of my nieces Diane and Laura who have Cystic Fibrosis. The critical life-limiting aspect of CF is that it damages their lungs. While modern medicine is improving their outlook, I know that either one of them would do a happy dance to have 80% lung function.

They visited Machu Picchu together some years ago (maybe five?). Those women are heroes.

Llamas grooming the plaza at Machu Picchu.

In the heart of the urban sector of the fortress, there were temples, funeral and mortuary spaces, and the Inca's sacred fountains and bath. Llamas kept the grass from getting out of control.

This might be an alpaca or perhaps a baby llama. I just love the eyelashes.

Watch your step! (Llama poop looks like ripe olives.)

Funerary rock, Machu Picchu

I'm pretty sure the funerary rock is actually carved out of the mountain's core bedrock.

Temple at Machu Picchu

Royal Tomb, Machu Picchu

I believe this beautiful sculpture was the royal tomb.

Another view of the tomb.

The Inca (and other high-level members of his society) were wrapped in a seated position and mummified. Their remains were kept in niches for worship.

The Inca's bath

"Fountain" at Machu Picchu

The water for this ritual bathing flowed through a series of carved runnels and cascades.

Although the Inca architecture was well-designed for an earthquake zone, that does not mean they were invulnerable to the effects.

Broken wall at Machu Picchu

Although we had a ticket to climb Huayna Picchu, the large mountain that appears in the back of most pictures of Machu Picchu, I was done. I had already seen more than I could remember and we were both tired.

So we took the bus back down to Aguas Calientes and walked to the hot springs to soothe our muscles.

Aguas termales or hot springs in Aguas Calientes

After our rest, we walked back through the village to the train station for our connection to take us to Cusco.

The village of Aguas Calientes (it's official name is Machu Picchu Pueblo, but everyone calles it Aguas Calientes) thrives on tourism and has invested in some delightful public art — of carved stone — so fitting!

Here are a couple of them.

The god Wiracocha
Artists: Jimena Medina Estete, Juan Vargas Wuaman, and Jhon and Pansaya Puertas

The goddess Mamacocha, the Andean divinity of water
Sculptor: Miguel Miranda Quinones

The very best souvenir shopping we found on this trip was at the train station in Aguas Calientes.

There were many halls of Peruvian textiles, pottery and other goods.
I honestly wish I had bought more — the prices were very reasonable, compared to Cusco.